When most of us tackle short ribs, we either braise them until they’re unctuous blocks of meat and molten fat or slice them thin and quickly grill in the style of Korean kalbi. This winter, try a third way from Philadelphia, where Yehuda Sichel, chef-partner at the haute delicatessen Abe Fisher, cures slabs of bone-in ribs in pastrami spices, smokes and slow roasts them, then slices the meat into spice-crusted pink ribbons of unbeatable tenderness.
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